UK - Walking in Northumberland

Howick to Craster - a circular walk

© Cathy Smith

UK -Northumberland - Seahouses - Bath House, Cathy Smith

Walking in Northumberland offers miles of fine coastal scenery, historic castles and ancient sites.

In 2006 the Campaign to Protect Rural England (CPRE) voted the north east county of Northumberland to be the most tranquil region in England and the perfect antidote to urban life . More Information

UK - Northumberland - Morpeth

UK - Northumberland - Traditional Music

Northumberland is the only English county with its own musical instrument, the Northumbrian pipes. They are smaller and sweeter sounding than the better known Scottish bagpipes. They have been around for centuries but are becoming very popular and you can inspect them in the Chantry were there is a bagpipe museum.

UK - Northumberland - Beginning of the walk

This is a circular walk of about seven miles. It begins at Seahouses where you follow a farm track to reach the coast. As you near the sea an elegant house sits at the edge of the cliff. This is an old bathing house which belonged to the gentry from Howick Hall in Victorian times. It is now used as self catering accommodation.

Turn left here and continue along the coastal path. It’s a gentle stroll to Craster, passing ancient ‘pancake’ rock formations with the broad stretch of the North Sea beyond.

The extensive ruins of Dunstanhurgh Castle loom into view. It was built in 1313 and although now a ruin it covers more ground than any other castle in the region - of which there are many.

According to legend, there is a secret cavern hidden beneath the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle in which a beautiful young maiden lies sleeping in a deep spell cast upon her by an evil wizard.

UK - Northumberland - Craster

Before carrying on to the castle it is mandatory to stop in the small fishing village of Craster and visit The Jolly Sailor pub for fresh crab sandwiches and a glass of the local beer. Craster is famous for fresh sea food, especially its smoked kippers (herrings) which are shipped to posh stores around the country. There’s a small shop opposite the Jolly Sailor which sells all manner of delicious sea food, fresh from the North Sea. Buy a small carton of mussels or cockles, sit on the sea wall, and eat them as a starter before moving on to the crab sandwiches in the pub.

UK - Northumberland - Dunstanburgh Castle

It’s a lovely stroll across a wide green field towards Dunstanburgh Castle, after which you see a long stretch of golden sandy beach ahead of you. There’s a golf course on the left. Keep an eye open for where it ends (the beach continues for quite a way) and turn into a sandy path leading away from the beach. Carry on along the path which leads a small group of about four houses, just before the houses is a footpath which leads you though a farm. This is the track that leads back to Craster. It’s mostly a narrow path through farmland.

Along the way you will come across a couple of World War 2 pillboxes - round, squat concrete structures with slits for windows from which British soldiers kept their guns trained on the North Sea in case of invasion by the Germans. They are covered with bags of sand, now cemented over to preserve them.

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The copyright of the article UK - Walking in Northumberland in Historical Vacations is owned by Cathy Smith. Permission to republish UK - Walking in Northumberland must be granted by the author in writing.


UK -Northumberland - Morpeth, Cathy Smith
UK -Northumberland - Seahouses - Bath House, Cathy Smith
UK -Northumberland - towards Dunstanburgh Castle, Cathy Smith
UK - Dunstanburgh Castle, Cathy Smith
UK -Northumberland - Beach near end of walk, Cathy Smith


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