Germany - Visit Saxony - Dresden, Leipzig
Bach's Birthplace, Frauenkirche,Semper Opera, Zwinger Palace,Dresden
May 25, 2007
Germany - Saxony - Dresden: The Frauenkirche
Nearly three centuries ago Dresden’s architectural gem, the Frauenkirche, was consecrated and became known as one of the most beautiful Protestant churches in Europe. Then, on February 13, 1945, during a devastating air raid by the Allied Forces of America and Britain, it was reduced to a pile of rubble. The ruins were left as a charred memorial to the senseless destruction of the city and as a tribute to the thousands who died in the terrible bombardment - estimated at abut 35,00 people.
With the coming down of the Berlin Wall and the reunification of Germany in 1989/1990 people from around the world rallied to rebuild the Frauenkirche and donations poured in.Reconstruction began in 1994 and today it once again dominates the Dresden skyline.
After decades of Soviet rule Dresden has thrown off its gloomy, grey robes and even dull old Eastern Bloc buildings are prettied up with coats of paint and pretty balconies. In spite of the Allied assault, a surprising chunk of the old city survived the bombs. Elegant 19th-century houses have been restored to their former glory.
Saxony - Dresden Culture
But there’s more to Dresden than beautiful architecture. The city has a lively cultural life and the Semper Opera is one of the best opera houses in the world. The late-Baroque complex of the Zwinger Palace with its gilded cupolas and turrets is home to an Armoury, a Zoological Museum and the Old Masters’ Gallery which has a wonderful collection, including Raphael’s Sistine Madonna. There’s also a fine display of the famous Meissen porcelain that is created just a few miles from Dresden and is open to the public.
Saxony - Leipzig: Bach's Birthplace
Saxony has other jewels on offer. If Dresden is an architectural gem, then Leipzig is a precious musical pearl. Only 130KM from Dresden, it’s an easy drive
Above all this is the city of Bach. His statue shows him with his pockets turned inside out and the story goes that, with so many children to support, he was always short of cash. However, he does look quite well-fed and prosperous.The man and his music are everywhere. The annual Bach festival in May is attended by visitors from around the world and there is much still in evidence of the life he led here. His statue stands outside St. Thomas’s Church where his body now lies in front of the main altar in the church in which he was most involved throughout his life and where he directed the St. Thomas Boys Choir. Nearby is St. Nicholas Church where he played the organ.
The Bach Museum in Leipzig is opposite a house where Bach lived. It’s a tranquil place with some lovely old instruments and an audio system which allows you to hear what the early keyboard instruments sounded like. The best part is the comfortable listening room where you can listen to the great man’s music on CDs.
Germany - Other Jewels of Saxony
Cultural heros like Mendelssohn, Schumanmn, Mahler, Wagner and Goethe all composed, wrote, and/or performed here. Goethe set part of the first scene in his play “Faust” in the Auerbacks Keller, a popular restaurant in the Madler Arcade which specialises in regional Saxon dishes. Nearby is a statue of Faust liasing with the devil, the toe of his left shoe worn to a high polish by people touching it for good luck - rather strange custom considering Faust’s failed search for the secret of eternal youth.
Another place worth a visit is the Zum Coffe Baum. Founded in 1711, this is one of the oldest coffee houses in Europe. Schumann was a regular here and anyone can sit in his favourite seat and order his favourite dish, said to be leg of lamb with garlic and thyme.
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