London's Historic Street Markets - Berwick St.

Traditional Market in Heart of Cosmopolitan Soho Since 18th Century

Jan 11, 2008

Berwick Street market has been trading over two hundred years in the same spot. A real London market, it sells fruit and vegetables plus a wide variety of other goods.

London Markets - Berwick St - Cosmopolitan Soho

Soho is the most cosmopolitan area of the capital. Yet many Soho afficionados have not discovered this neighborhood market which sells some of the best quality and cheapest produce in London. The Cockney traders loudly proclaim that they offer the freshest vegetables and most exotic fruits that money can buy. But it offers more than fruit and vegetables; if you're after vinyl CD or Video the shops on Berwick Street are good places to explore.

The market had its beginnings some time in the 18th century when shopkeepers used the sidewalk to display their wares. The earliest known reference to the sale of goods in the street occurred in 1778 when ten traders were summoned for setting out goods in the street.The truculent sellers ignored all this and continued to obstruct the sidewalks with their produce. By the late 19th century the practice had developed into a regular institution and the rate payers wanted it to stay.

In the old days, the market inspectors held much more power than they do today, which is probably a good thing. For example, butchers who were selling meat not as fresh as it should be were liable to be fined and flogged. They also had a say in what type of goods could be sold. Today things are much more relaxed. Traders still need to have a licence but anyone can set up a stall.

London Markets - Berwick St - A Wide Variety of Goods

It has been a fruit and vegetable market since the 1840’s but nowadays other traders have crept in who offer a wider variety of goods. You might ask yourself why you would want to visit what is still essentially a fruit and vegetable market? Well, one reason is that this lively street market market is a real slice of London life. Some of the shops alongside the street are as enticing as the market stalls. Workers come at lunch time to do their shopping and pop into a nearby pub for a sandwich and a beer. There’s a great butcher’s shop called ‘Simply Sausages’ which sells a very tasty and varied selection of sausages.

Berwick Street itself was built between 1687 and 1703 and by 1720 it was a handsome street and there are a number houses dating from the 18th century many of which were inhabited by Huguenot families, forced to leave Catholic France from the 16th century on in order to freely practice their religion.

All this had changed by the 19th century, by which time Berwick Street was in the middle of a crowded slum area and there were many deaths from cholera. A doctor named John Snow was convinced that the cholera was water-borne and he insisted that the handle of the nearby pump be chained to stop people using it, thereby saving many lives.

Ever since markets began they have been associated with a certain amount of merriment and consumption of alcohol. The Green Man pub at No.57 sits on a site which has been home to a tavern since 1738.

Why not buy some fresh fruit from the market, a meat pie from the butcher, a bottle of your favourite tipple from the pub, and enjoy an alfresco lunch in nearby Soho Square, a delightful green space in the heart of Soho, just a few minutes walk from Berwick Street.

The copyright of the article London's Historic Street Markets - Berwick St. in Historical Travel is owned by Cathy Smith. Permission to republish London's Historic Street Markets - Berwick St. in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.