London Walks - Rural Hampstead Heath
Historic Landscape of Woodland, Meadows and a Stately Home
Mar 5, 2008
Some years ago the actor, Michael Caine, wrote an amusing and informative book entitled ‘Not Many People Know That’ - full of fascinating bits and pieces around the world that nobody seems to have heard of. For example, who knew that the great 14th century Italian explorer Marco Polo was once mayor of a city in China for three years?
Hampstead Heath - a short trip from Piccadilly Circus
One thing that is not in the book is any mention of Hampstead Heath - one of London’s absolute gems. Tourists have an excuse for not knowing about 'The Heath', as locals call it, but there are probably thousands of Londoners who have never taken the short trip from the city centre to reach this large slice of rural landscape.
The Heath covers 790 acres of open countryside where every inch has been fought for since 1829 when developers wanted to create a ‘proper’ park with flower beds, concrete walkways and artificial ponds. Thank goodness they were stopped. Now what we have is an environment that is a good place for birdwatchers, with hundred species of birds as well as ancient trees and scores of documented flora.
Hampstead Heath - Once home to wolves
In the 13th century the area was still infested wth wolves - now there are foxes who are shy and tend to keep away from visitors, although you can sometimes see one scuttling amongst the trees. Later, in the 16th century, this is where local washerwomen scrubbed the underwear of the rich. There are still natural ponds in use today - only for swimming. You'll have to do your washing somewhere else!
Hampstead Heath - Haunt of highwaymen and robbers
Later, in the 18th century, the trees and bushes of the Heath provided cover for highwaymen - thieves who robbed travellers using the lonely roads to the city. They became somewhat romanticized over time. One of the most famous was Dick Turpin. Legend says he robbed the rich to give to the poor, although there doesn’t seem to be any evidence of this and numerous murders are attributed to him.
Hampstead Heath - Historic buildings
There are some beautiful historic buildings on the Heath, including a Georgian (18th century) pergola - a covered walk full of flowers and plants. There are great views from here but the star is Kenwood House, a gorgeous 17th-century mansion set in 200 acres of tranquil parkland located on the northern fringe of the Heath. It was once the home of Lord Mansfield who, fortunately, was prevented by Parliament from developing the Heath as a building plot.
The first Earl of Iveagh, Edward Guinness of the famous brewing family, bought Kenwood House in 1925 and it is thanks to him that there is a world-famous art collection here which includes paintings by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Turner, Reynolds and Gainsborough, plus many more. Entrance is free.
The interior is splendid and the huge stables at the rear have been converted into a good restaurant. There’s also an attractive outside eating area.
Hampstead Heath - Explore woodland trails
This is turn-around point and you will need to make your way back to where you started, if that is what you want to do. There are bus services close to Kenwood House but why not just explore more of the Heath on your return journey. There are some lovely woodland trails. If you get lost, don’t worry, just keep walking downhill and you will reach ‘civilization’, i.e. Hampstead Village where there is an Underground station.
Hampstead is the highest point in London. A map would be a good idea and will show other points of interest along the way.
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