Explore "hidden" London. Beneath the noise of the traffic lies a secluded world of quiet canals. A century ago ago this idyllic scene would have been unimaginable.
The canals were noisy, smelly and full of industrial bustle, crowded with barges making their way to the capital from all corners of England. But in recent years London’s canals have been rejuvenated and walkers are able to enjoy over 40 miles of towing paths.
London Canal Walking - The Romans were here first
The Romans may have built the first canal but it needed the Industrial Revolution to create a system which took over from horse-drawn transport to provide the first cheap and efficient means of inland transport. The canal boats, known as narrow boats, gaily decorated with painted castles and roses, were pulled by horses walking along the towpaths, but this all changed in the 1860’s when steam boats were introduced, filling the air with smoke and the smell of burning coal.
London Canal Walking - How to get there
Today the canals are more peaceful. The narrow boats still drift by, providing splashes of colour against overhanging trees and grassy banks., Arm yourself with an ‘A-Z’ of London and take the Underground to Camden Town. Camden Lock, The starting point of the walk, is less than ten minutes walk from here. Over the bridge and turn left into Camden Lock Centre - a complex of craft shops and cafes with a very lively weekend market. Walk through the Centre down to the tow path.
London Canal Walking - Dangerous Work in the 19th Century
The second bridge brings you to a handsome iron structure with Doric columns. This is Macclesfield Bridge, sometimes referred to as ‘Blow-Up Bridge’ because of an explosion which occurred in 1874. A narrow boat carrying five tonnes of gunpowder blew up, killing the crew of four and causing considerable damage to the surrounding area. The supporting columns of the bridge were saved from the wreckage and re-used when the bridge was rebuilt - but they were re-erected the wrong way round, as you can see if you look carefully - grooves worn by the canal horses’ towing ropes are on the wrong side.
London Canal Walking - A peaceful part of the walk
The walk continues around Regent’s Park. This is a very peaceful part of the canal, with huge trees and some magnificent mansions overlooking the water through the trees. Just past a colony of canal boats is a long tunnel with a house built above it. Once through here you will see the Maida Hill Tunnel with an iron staircase running off to the right. There is no access through it and you will have to make a small detour.
London Canal Walking - Good place to pause for a rest
Leave the tow path by the iron staircase, which brings you to Aberdeen Place where you will see a large Victorian pub on the right where you can have a snack or a drink. Walk down to Maida Vale and cross the road to Blomfield Road opposite (to the right of the cafe) to regain the canal. This is Little Venice. It supposedly was named by the poet Robert Browning who compared the area to Venice. Walk about a couple of hundred yards along this lovely tree-lined street, where pretty narrow boats hug the tow path - many looking as though they have been permanent fixtures for years with their tiny canalside gardens filled with flowers.
The nearest Underground station, Warwick Avenue, is a few minutes walk from here, or if you would like to return to Camden Town by boat you can take the Jenny Wren narrowboat from Little Venice.
Related article: England - Narrow Boat Holiday
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