France - Troyes Ancient Capital Champagne Region
Europe’s Largest Collection of Medieval Timber-framed Houses
Sep 26, 2009
A visit to Troyes is like a walk through history and its rich architectural heritage is classified as a protected area. Unfortunately, the great fire of 1525 destroyed a huge swathe of the beautiful medieval city and the present wooden houses date mostly from reconstruction around 1530. An amazing feat in only six years or so. As you explore, take notice of the the interesting details on the houses; supporting beams protrude into the street in order to support the upper floors and are are often decorated with attractive carvings and sculptures.
Troyes Cathedral
The Gothic Cathedral of Saint Peter and Saint Paul dominates the centre of Troyes and is one of France’s fine national monuments. It is particularly interesting because of its beautiful stained glass. There have been religious buildings on this site since at least the 4th century but construction of the present cathedral did not begin until around 1200 and continued until the 17th century. Cathedrals are a long term project!
Troyes – Troy Weight
An interesting historical snippet about Troyes is that the troy weight originated here. This is a unit of imperial measure which today is used to gauge the weight and therefore the price of precious metals such as gold. It all began in Troyes around the 11th century when huge annual fairs attracted merchants from the then known world. The fairs set standards of weights and measures for the whole of Europe and the troy weight survives to this day.
Troyes Museum of Modern Art
Everything is not ancient in Troyes. The Museum of Modern Art opened in 1982. It is housed in a former bishop's palace beside the cathedral and is worth a visit. The collection is excellent and displays works of art created between 1850 and 1950 with paintings by Cézanne, Picasso, Gaugin, Matisse and many more.There is also a collection of African art which is displayed in the garden.
Troyes Cuisine
France, of course, is noted for its fine regional cuisines and excellent dishes are as easily found in Troyes as anywhere else. One of its traditional dishes is called andouillette, a dish considered a delicacy by many people, even by King Louis II of France, who was crowned in Troyes. If you are looking for something different this is it, although it may not be to everyone’s taste. The traditional Troyes andouillette is essentially a large sausage made entirely from a pig’s intestines and stomach, often referred to as ‘chitterlings’. Onions and herbs are added and the mixture is wrapped in the animal’s bowels and cooked slowly in a meat stock.
Visit Renoir’s Workshop at Essoyes
The French Impressionist painter, August Renoir, lived and worked in the small village of Essoyes, less than half an hour’s drive from Troyes and he is buried in the village cemetery. The village is represented in many of his paintings and his garden and studios are open to the public. There are four marked hiking paths which cover many of the landscapes he painted.
Tip: Remember that Troyes is situated in the Champagne region so why not visit the vineyards and buy some bubbly to take home?
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