Explore Eastern Canada - Acadian Nova Scotia

The Capital Halifax, Graveyard of the Titanic, the Evangeline Trail

Apr 10, 2007

In the 17th-century many people crossed the Atlantic from France to settle in their new homeland, Acadia, now part of Canada's Maritime provinces. Ici on parle français.

In 1744 England and France once again declared war with the result that Acadia became a British colony. But the majority of those living here were French-speaking Acadians, and Catholic to boot. Their numbers were growing and they lived on the richest farmland. The British wanted them out to make room for Protestant settlers and the governor decided to settle the problem by expelling the Acadians from Nova Scotia. In time, many returned to their Acadia and today you will see the Acadian flag flying outside some houses.

The way to see Nova Scotia is to drive. You’ll probably fly into Halifax airport. so arrange to have a hire car waiting for you and the rest is easy. Roads are good and there’s little traffic - it’s a big country with a small population and lots of space. The roads are lined with lupins in summer and there are dozens of beautifully restored 19th century mansions now operating as very reasonably priced B&B’s.

Halifax is a bracing seaport with a magnificent harbour and a restored waterfront that looks much as it did in 1912 when the Titanic sank just off the coast of Halifax. The beautiful little fishing village of Peggy'sCove is worth a visit. If you are anxious to get onto the Acadian trail then get onto highway 101 near Lower Sackville. This leads north straight to Grand Pre, just a mile or so east of Wolfville and Grand Pré National Historic Park, which is considered an important historic site by the Acadians. It recalls their saddest moment, when over two thousand people were deported from Grand Pré alone. In the small stone church, built on the site of the original where they were told of their expulsion, there’s a beautiful stained-glass window which shows them being loaded onto boats to be taken away into exile.

The highway continues west along what has become known as the Evangeline Trail - named after Longfellow’s fictional Acadian heroine. The Trail meanders through the lush Annapolis Valley and along the Acadian region of St. Mary’s Bay which is dotted all along the coast with small French-speaking villages just waiting to be explored. (Most people also speak English).

Fresh steamed lobster, wild blueberry pie and creamy seafood chowders are everywhere. Digbyis famous for its scallops and is home to one of the world’s largest scallop fishing fleets. It is also well-known for its “Digby chicks”, a type of smoked herring. Traditional Acadian foods are available in many of these small villages. Look out for Rapie Pie - a type of meat pie topped with grated potato from which all the starch has been squeezed.

Canada's largest and oldest annual Acadian cultural event, the Festival Acadien de Clare.

The copyright of the article Explore Eastern Canada - Acadian Nova Scotia in Historical Travel is owned by Cathy Smith. Permission to republish Explore Eastern Canada - Acadian Nova Scotia in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.